USA, 1898-1900, Sapphire, demantoid, ruby, river pearls, gold

L 6 cm, B 4,5 cm, 16,47 Gramm

This sensational piece of Art Nouveau jewellery was hand-forged out of 14k gold. It can be worn as a pendant as well as brooch, the brooch fitting can be unscrewed.
The center stone is an oval cushion-shaped natural sapphire held with 8 claws in the shape of waves. The eight claws are arranged as a succession of waves, reminiscent at the same time of sea creature tentacles. The sapphire is framed by a ruby, a diamond and a demantoid.
On the top of the brooch we see coils, the one on the left holds a round old-cut diamond, the one in the right holds an demantoid. The center of the top is decorated with a tooth-shaped Mississippi river pearl set in a stilised fleur de lys.
From the bottom of the brooch an articulated large river pearl is suspended in a mount that is reminiscent of a triton.